Reflexologists use both hands and tools during their foot treatments.

UNSURE what to expect from my upcoming reflexology treatment, I turned to that infallible, all-knowing source: Wikipedia.

The prognosis wasn’t good. “There is no consensus on how reflexology does or could work in practice,” the entry said. The “claims” of reflexologists were listed: Pain and stress reduction through manipulating the feet, the releasing of endorphins and the promotion of lymphatic flow – all of which “are rejected by the scientific community”.

Somewhat disappointed, I searched a little further afield. The online Encyclopedia of Medicine made me a little more optimistic.

“Although reflexology is medically unproven and no one really knows exactly how it works, it is known that the thousands of nerve endings in the feet have extensive interconnections through the spinal cord and can send messages via the brain to all areas of the body,” it said.

It described reflexology as a “whole system” therapy that normalised bodily functions rather than curing problems but added that it was particularly good for stress and fatigue:

“At a minimum, treatment is relaxing and can help relieve stress.”

So I now at least had some idea how reflexology “worked” and confirmed my appointment at Yangon’s Hana Reflexology and Beauty. At worst, I figured, it would be something like a foot massage.

A book I had recently been reading mentioned the Turkish torture method of beating the soles of victims’ feet. While, thankfully, I wasn’t hung upside down at Hana Reflexology and Beauty (as is the Turkish practice), the torture method was never far from my mind as the reflexologist pushed and prodded the different areas of my feet. Needless to say, I didn’t exactly get the hour of relaxation I expected.

I was constantly amazed how these petite, lithe women (I say women because, while there was only ever one person working on my feet at a time, they would inexplicably swap, like tag-team wrestlers) could inflict so much pain with seemingly little effort.

I should say that it wasn’t all pain – but the occasional brief respite would be interrupted by more pummelling and pounding.

Afterwards, though, is a strange sensation; almost the opposite of the treatment itself. Your feet seem light, almost as if they’re floating, and you can almost feel the blood flowing (it might have been my imagination).

Other reflexology customers reported similar feelings. Gabby, 26, says while sometimes uncomfortable, the treatment left her feet feeling refreshed. She is sceptical of the medical benefits, though.

“To be honest I thought it was beautiful, but perhaps a little painful,” she says. “I remember walking out of the building and feeling like I was walking on cushions. Apart from that I didn’t really notice any more benefits – but it was nice at the time.”