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| Fishermen pull their boat from the water along the Ayeyarwady coast. |
MYANMAR has more than 2000 kilometres of coastline facing the Andaman Sea and the Bay of Bengal and is a haven of unspoiled and undeveloped beaches.
The long stretch of coastline in Ayeyarwady Division and Rakhine State towards India offers spectacular sunset views, while the islands of Myeik Archipelago, in Tanintharyi Division, are filled with countless empty stretches of white sand.
While there are several famous beaches in Myanmar – Chaungtha and Ngwe Saung in Ayeyarwady Division and Ngapali in Rakhine State – there are many others that are known only to locals and a few intrepid adventurers. Some lack accommodation or transport links, while others are downright dangerous with their swirling currents and murky water. Nevertheless, visiting a beach that is off the beaten track can be worth the effort. Here are a few suggestions for travellers wanting to get away from the major beach resorts while still enjoying a few waves.
Situated south of Yangon at the mouth of the Bago River, Letkhokkon alternates between beige sand beach and dark mud flat (with water buffaloes) depending on the tide. Don’t expect crystal-clear water but there are plenty of coconut palms.
There’s only one hotel in town licensed for foreigners – the exorbitant Letkhokkon Beach Hotel – and finding decent food can be a bit tough, which is ridiculous considering the ocean bounty the fishermen here pull in every day.
Despite being less than 100 kilometres from Yangon, it would be difficult to do Letkhokkon in a day trip without a private car or motorcycle. By pick up, it’s a four-hour journey from Dalah, across the Yangon River from the downtown area, along a bumpy, potholed road.
One recent visitor recommended hiring a motorbike as his “seat” on the pick up was actually just a space to sit on the bonnet of the vehicle.
Setse beach is close to Thanbyuzayat, about 80km south of the Mon State capital Mawlamyine. From Yangon it’s about a 10-hour journey by car to Setse – add a few extra hours if taking the bus or train.
The beach is wide but the water is not clear and the sand is brown. Accommodation consists of bungalow-style rooms tucked away in the shady trees that line the sand. Also in this area are a few outdoor restauraunts and snack shops.
Kanthayar Beach is located in Rakhine State about 25km north of Gwa. It is also know as Pleasant Beach, which is simply a direct translation of its Myanmar name.
The sand there is not white and the beach, which stretches for about 4.5km, is very shallow. There are a few basic guesthouses in the area that accept foreigners and Lonely Planet advises that Kanthayar is a decent place to break a road trip between Thandwe and Yangon. Alternatively, travellers could fly to Thandwe airport, near Ngapali, about 115km to the north and hire a jeep for the six or seven hour journey south to Kanthayar. This stretch of road is reportedly in decent condition.