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Pyin Oo Lwin’s picturesque multi-level
Chinese pagoda offers views over the town and surrounding
areas.
Pic: Stuart Deed |
STEPPING over swathes and patches of fallen leaves as I walked
along a lane to the stand where small buses were waiting for passengers.
My plan had originally been to hire a trishaw to drive me around
Pyin Oo Lwin but to save both time and money I chose the pick-up
bus instead.
I arrived at the stand alongside the Chinese Temple near Myoma
Market at 6:30am, bought a ticket, took a seat and waited for
other passengers to arrive. Thirty minutes later the bus’
engine grumbled to life and we set off down the Mandalay-Lashio
highway that cuts right through the town.
One fellow traveller sitting opposite me said: “It’s
definitely worth paying K1500 to visit five of the most popular
spots in town.”
By the end of the excurion, I felt it was a good deal too although
it left a few things to be desired.
The first stop on the list was the Maha Ahnt Htoo Kan Tha Buddha
image, 30 minutes from downtown. Walking around the platform of
the temple I pondered the image’s history.
Legend has it that the Buddha image sits where it fell off the
back of a truck en route to Shweli on the Chinese border. Rather
than try to put it back on the truck, locals chose to leave it
where it lay and build a pagoda around it.
Unfortunately, I had only 15 minutes to look around and was
forced to leave the inviting-looking hills nearby unexplored.
Next stop was Peikchin Myaung Cave, about 12 miles (19 kilometres)
to the east. A concrete path leads directly into the cave’s
mouth but most visitors that I saw chose to pick their way around
the outside of a little waterfall to gain entry. Inside the cave,
also known as Maha Nandamu, are a number of gilded Buddha images.
Lime-infused water drips from the roof of the cave and stains
the ground white and green, while water roars past underneath
the concrete path and the air is cool and damp.
At the end of the cave is a narrow ladder that leads to a second
cave. After climbing to the top I had a minor panic attack and
had to rush outside through the exit, which is mercifully close.
It was highly embarrassing for me because nobody else had the
same problem. My cheeks burned as I waited outside for everyone
to come out.
The third stop was the Pwe Kauk waterfalls, which are also known
as the BE falls. When we arrived the waters at the base of the
falls were alive with people playing around and comically posing
for photographs.
I rolled up the legs of my jeans and waded in the cool shallows
as I slaked my thirst with a mug of thick, blissfully sweet strawberry
juice.
But just as I was beginning to relax the bus driver began yelling
that it was time to leave again, this time heading to the Chinese
temple on the outskirts of the town.
The six-level, hexagonal pagoda is visible for miles around
and the compound also includes a temple. Like thousands of tourists
before me, I found the temple a fantastic place to take photos,
especially the exquisitely detailed dragons that adorn the building.
However, the 15 minutes we had for our visit were not enough to
explore it properly.
The last stop on our half-day tour of Pyin Oo Lwin was by far
the most spectacular – the National Kandawgyi Park and the
newly opened National Landmark Gardens, which are the town’s
most popular attractions.
These two parks are enormous and I was unsure where to start
since I had only an hour. With the clock ticking I chose the National
Kandawgyi Park and refused to be deterred by the K1000 entrance
fee.
Entering the park I understood why people call Pyin Oo Lwin
the “city of flowers” because I was surrounded by
flowers of seemingly every shape, colour and size. As I walked
along by myself it felt like the flowers were all there for my
pleasure – and like the crushing closeness of the cave earlier
it nearly took my breath away.
But such was the scale of the gardens that even a whole day
would not be enough to take in all the attractions of the park,
let alone one hour.
With the tour over, the bus returned to its starting point at
1:30pm.
Although I seen the majority of the town’s most visited
tourist attractions I was disappointed that I had had to rush
constantly and check my watch frequently to make sure my bus didn’t
leave me behind. Plus, several sights – like the Kyauk Taung
Pagoda and a Buddha image made from bamboo strips – were
not included in the tour.
I made up my mind to visit these places when I next visit Pyin
Oo Lwin, but perhaps next time I’ll rent a trishaw.