The coming of Thadingut always brings a smile to Mya Win’ face.
As the rainy season comes to an end and there are fewer clouds in the sky, Mya Win reminisces about returning to his native town to see parents and relatives.
During Thadingyut townships are also full of people adorning their houses with lanterns, whilst outside children play on the streets and young lovers flirt in the parks.
This is what makes people happy in the lead-up to the full moon day of Thadingyut, which is celebrated from 29 October to 2 November this year.
“The water (Thangyan) and light (Thadingyut) festivals are the happiest times of the year. They always bring back happy memories from my childhood,” Mya Win said.
Thidingyut is the time when students replace hellfire with homework, being able to celebrate their final days of freedom before the mid-term exams. Thadingyut is when the final rains fall, replaced by colourful firework spinners, comets and strobes in the sky.
Chinese firecrackers drown out the sounds of frogs croaking, and music replaces the patter of rain on the rooftops.
This year the COVID-19 restrictions have put a damper on celebrations. Though Thandingyut music rings out across the townships, and people still adorn their houses with lanterns, fewer people are partying on the streets.
Yangon's famous Yekyaw festival is devoid of its usual crowds. Located between Bogyoke and Yekyaw roads, the neon-lit strip was one of the few places in Myanmar to boast a Ferris wheel – albeit human-powered.
“We have been preoccupied with the virus this year, and had no time to think about the festival,” U Min Way, who sells fruit on Yay Kyaw Road, said.
U Soe Aung is also from Yaykyaw, and said the festival – a highlight for visitors across the city – simply disappeared between the virus and the upcoming election.
“We have to understand that the festival is not important now. The main thing is that people are safe,” he said.
Min Wai Yan, who lives on the same street, said he wasn’t happy about the festival being cancelled. This year the 15-year-old will experience his first festival-free Thidingyut.
Thanlyin, Theingyi Market and Bargayar are usually also teaming with people during Thadingyut, being places people can buy fireworks and handmade lanterns.
Despite being ordered to close during the stay-at-home order, some stalls at Theingyi Market are still half-open. Many customers buy Chinese lanterns and decorations here.
Sein Sein (not her real name) carries a slinky cotton bag over her shoulder, and walks around looking for customers to sell her firecrackers and sparklers.
“YCDC is trying to arrest us, and we haven’t sold much today,” she said while placing a betel quid in her mouth.
Daw Lay Nwe, who lives in Bagayar and sells hand-made lanterns, said she had to make do with last years’ supplies because it was not easy to source the materials during the lockdown. According to her, she has only sold one-tenth of what she made last her. She is unhappy that COVID-19 has taken over her business.
“You know, I'm depressed, but there’s nothing we can do about it,” she said.
Ko Thant Zin, who lives in Thaketa, is disappointed that he can’t return home to Mawlamyine this year. He had to take a break from construction work due to COVID-19 restrictions, and is left alone in his room.
“I am upset that I could not return, and the disease is only accelerating,” he said.
As he looks out onto the street there are fewer lanterns and decorations, but those he does see are six feet apart.
Though the moonlight will shine just as strong over his dormitory, the streets in Myanmar’s townships will all be a little dimmer during this year’s Thadingyut celebrations.
