A peaceful Yangon getaway – boating on Ye Nwe Dam


A peaceful Yangon getaway – boating on Ye Nwe Dam

After several months of heeding stay-at-home orders, it was time I indulged myself with a short trip to Kyauktaga in the Bago Yoma (mountain ranges) to see the great hornbills on New Year’s Eve.

The hillside is a home to so many tall trees, which attract all sorts of wildlife besides the colourful hornbills. As the Myristica fruits and avocados ripen, the giant birds flock to feast. They make their way through each tree, until each has run out.


Our vacation started at Hpado in Kyauktaga township, just next to the road sign that marks 83 miles from Yangon on the Yangon-Mandalay Highway. It took three hours to reach Hpado, and we weren’t required to show any health documents.

We were blessed to see around 10 great hornbills sitting on a tree overlooking a ravine. It was romantic seeing the birds forage as couples, hopping from branch to branch to feed each other.


Photographer Ko Kyi Moe joined us on our journey, snapping pictures of the birds as we walked through the forest. To ensure the hornbill’s safety this year, Ko Kyi Moe even employed a villager to warn off hunters from killing the birds.

"They would sit there until their stomachs were full," Ko Kyi Moe said. “We can’t do that if there are hunters around.”

After spending half an hour watching these laid-back creatures, we decided to explore the surrounding forest trails in the Ye New Reserve. There was a viewpoint six miles up the mountain, and we headed off for that. The walk up the mountain was steep, with clumps of bamboo sheltering us from the wind.

When we arrived at the top the warm evening sun was just setting above the dam, radiating a beautiful orange over the water.

Ye Nwe dam is near the side of a mountain in Bago Region that has been designated a forest and elephant conservation zone. Visitors may glimpse a family of elephants if they are lucky.


For those interested in the dam, it’s possible to hire a boat and spend the day cruising across the after. The path leading to the boat station is easy to follow, and can be found at the check point at the entrance of the forest reserve. After parking our car at the check point, we walked towards the water’s edge via a narrow and stony path.

We passed a few small thatched houses along the way, many of them inhabited by Kayin villagers.

Though the dam is a massive man-made construction, the surrounding trees and mountains make the area appear much more natural. We felt like we were at Inle lake.

The atmosphere on the lake is just a peaceful as it is in Inle, only with occasional rotting trees protruding from the water’s surface. It was earie, paddling past them. In the distance we could see a lonely thatched house on one side of the dam, which took us over an hour to reach.

A two-hour boat tour of the dam is just K25,000, and it’s worth every kyat.

Before heading to Yangon, we stopped by hornbill trees to say goodbye to our feathered friends. It was 2pm and they were still there.

"Some were taking a bath in a creek, after eating all day", said U Thar Htwe, a villager who lived beside the nearby creek.

As if gesturing to say goodbye, one great hornbill took off and glided high overhead as we got into the car.

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